Friday, November 5, 2021

Continuing our exploration of Samarkand

One of the most unusual visits we had was to see a 14th century observatory built by Ulugh Beg who was very into astronomy and built this around the 1420's. It got covered by earth for many centuries and what one can see now was only discovered in 1908....... the exterior is still very impressive...

....the interior even more so!
 
... and outside the observatory, life was as in the past.... sellers of bread... not tourist souvenirs!
Next on our list was the Shah-i-Zinda mausoleum complex


As it was a weekend we saw the most people of anywhere here...... all locals! Few, if any, tourists!
But there were some quiet corners!

By now being over monumented we went to a wine tasting... to the Khovrenko winery in an old Russian style family home.
Being only two we joined a French tourist group... so explanations were in either Russian or French!
No problem with French... and they were a very happy group!
Unfortunately most of the white wines were very sweet.... think sherry! 

And afterwards went back to check out the Registan!



Wednesday, November 3, 2021

Exploring Samarkand.....

 We did finally get to see the Bibikhan mosque.....

..... whose domes we had been watching from the hotel.   

There are 3 mosques buildings.....

2 have been restored .......

...again with beautiful tilework!

...but one mosque is closed to the public as it is a little dangerous.... falling sand!  Managed to get an interior view of it however. They are waiting for the OK from UNESCO before restoring. The exterior looks great! But happy that we could not enter!

 It was decided to go over a mountain pass the next morning, the Takhta-Karacha pass..... unfortunately as it was raining there were very few people at the market at the top.

We were en route to visit where Timur was born, Shahrisabz. His Summer Palace had been huge in its day, the gate posts were 65 m high.... however what remains has not been restored. But still impressive in size




It is a popular wedding photo site! Even in light rain!

Apparently the brides rent the dresses for $300 to $1000 and then have photos taken at all local historical sites!


Of course we did have to go on to look at a mosque or two!

...and we looked at where Timur was supposed to have been buried.... before it was decided to have him lie in golden splendour at Gur-e-Amir!

Going back over the pass was interesting.... 



....the rain had now turned into sleet/snow!

We were happy to get back to Samarkand ...

 and have dinner at the Platan restaurant .....

Monday, November 1, 2021

Finally on to Samarkand...



The trip from Bukhara to Samarkand was by train..... the Afrosiyob high speed train bought from Spain.

Getting into the train terminal was very like taking a flight.....entry check with passport, to even enter the train station grounds, then again security check for all baggage within the station, a long wait in a waiting room and then finally allowed to access the platform to embark......

 with a final check of tickets at the carriage door.....

On arrival at Samarkand we were picked up by our driver who had driven ahead with out luggage.

Our hotel, the Bibikhanum, was not as charming nor the rooms as great as the prior nights in Bukhara. However it had a view to die for! On to the domes of the BibiKhan mosque! Our evening view on arrival was amazing!

We were taken out to dinner to the Karimbek restaurant.... passing by the  Registan en route! Samarkand is now a very large city so walking to a restaurant was not an option! All the restaurants we were taken to seem to be in the new part of the city. So driving to them was usually a 10 minute drive.



 Our breakfast view at the hotel next morning was even more amazing than our view the prior evening.....


However visiting its interiors were not on today's itinerary! 
We were taken to Timur's final resting place Gur-e-Amir....

The inside was very impressive......lots of gold leaf!
 


We needed to go back to explore the Registan in daylight! But the change of weather and cloudy sky made it a little less impressive than the night before........



Amazing detail!




We checked out the Tillya Kari mosque... inside the madrassah.....





However activity in today's Registan madrassas is not exactly an academic pursuit....... just tenacious souvenir sellers!

We got to try the national dish of Plov today at the Osh Markazi centre! Actually very tasty!!